The Face Of 2020: 10 Non-Surgical Procedures Those In The Know Are Having (2023)

It used to be that the biggest signifier of good ‘work’ was that people would ask who your doctor was. These days, the question that confirms a facial tweak has been a success is, ‘Have you just been away?’ (We’ll also take: ‘What foundation are you wearing?’) Because non-surgical aesthetic procedures done well are no longer about noticeably changing your face, but perking it up in an indefinable way.

The aim is not a fake look, rather one that communicates happiness, good health and enough sleep.

The world of aesthetic treatments – essentially anything from a facial to surgery – has come a long way since the days of ice-rink smooth foreheads and bouncy-castle lips. Clunky old machines have given way to a whizzy, multifunctional kit; injectable formulas are far gentler; and doctors themselves have honed a more delicate touch. The result: quick, effective, often painless treatments offering a payoff (sometimes immediate) beyond the reach of skincare alone.

No wonder our appetite for ‘tweakments’ has grown. Around one in four of us would now consider an aesthetic treatment such as Botox to give our skin a boost,* with the UK non-surgical market set to be worth £3 billion by 2024.**

Claire Brand

But what about the other five out of six, for whom it’s a hard no to needles? Well, that’s where the non-invasive options come in – lasers, fat-freezing and oxygen jets blasting goodness into the skin. These days, wherever you draw your line in the sand, you can achieve brilliant skin (bank balance notwithstanding).

If you’ve ever wondered just how your colleague somehow stole Angelina Jolie’s jawline over the weekend or where your friend’s pores have suddenly gone, our round-up of the best new ‘Have they? Haven’t they?’ treatments might provide some answers...

Claire Brand

If they look ridiculously fresh faced, they may be having...

Profhilo

What Is It?

Injections of hyaluronic acid under the skin to plump things up.

The Lowdown

Although still not a household name like Botox, Profhilo is becoming the preferred face-refreshing injectable for many aesthetic doctors. It has fewer complications: it doesn’t ‘freeze’ muscle, which is scary for some; it gives longer-lasting results (six months for most, while Botox is usually four to six); and a more natural finish, improving skin quality from within.

The Name To Know

Dr Vicky Dondos at Medicetics Skin Clinic.

Be Aware

A rule for life: always say yes to the numbing cream. While it’s over in less than 10 minutes, it is painful and pinching, especially around the mouth. But there’s no downtime, so long as you don’t mind the bee-sting-like bumps on your face for a few hours while the liquid melts into your skin.

The Details

Given in two doses, four weeks apart, for £850; medicetics.com

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If they look like they've had a week of early nights, they may be having...

The Triple Boost HydraBright

What Is It?

A triple dose aesthetic cocktail (hyaluronic acid, mesotherapy and PRP – platelet-rich plasma: the good bits of your blood) to rejuvenate the eye area.

The Lowdown

The eye area is the first to show signs of ageing but the hardest to treat. For visible results, this three-pronged attack is stellar. First, small, injected doses of hyaluronic acid boost hydration and volume. Then, the blood that was taken pre-treatment (like a standard blood test) to extract PRP, is injected back into skin to regenerate and brighten. Finally, the mesotherapy –a mix of vitamins, minerals and amino acids administered via tiny needles – erases pigmentation and fine lines.

The Name To Know

Dr Maryam Zamani at Cadogan Clinic.

Be Aware

Anything involving injections around the eyes should be approached with caution because the skin is delicate. And, well, blindness. But Dr Zamani is an oculoplastic surgeon, so you’re in safe hands. The numbing cream makes it comfortable, though the use of PRP will give many the heebie-jeebies.

The Details

£1,700 for the first treatment, then £1,000 for subsequent ones; drmaryamzamani.com

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If they look like they've had a mini facelift, they may be having...

Shape & Sculpt

What Is It?

Radio frequency laser with CoolSculpting (fat-freezing) technology to redefine a soft jawline.

The Lowdown

If using filler to rediscover a long-lost jawline (it’s common in the US) isn’t for you, consider this. A CoolSculpting device melts away fat pockets around the jaw (based on the premise that frozen fat cells will eventually be flushed away by the liver), then the firming radio frequency laser encourages plumping collagen to tighten the skin over the top.

The Name To Know

Dr Sophie Shotter at Illuminate Skin Clinic.

Be Aware

The CoolMini is the new and updated version of the fat-freezing tech traditionally used on muffin tops, saddle bags and stomachs, but this time using smaller panels for your face. While the procedure isn’t painful, having a roll of fat pinched between two ice-cold metal plates for 30 minutes feels anything but comfortable – the warming radio frequency is a walk in the park by comparison. And, while CoolSculpting results are permanent, the firming radio frequency firming results only last up to six months.

The Details

One CoolMini and eight rounds of weekly Venus Legacy radio frequency treatments cost from £2,000; illuminateskinclinic.co.uk

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If they look a little less lined, they may be having...

the AquaGold facial

What Is It?

A customised dose of face-refreshing ingredients (from vitamins to hyaluronic acid and possibly even Botox), which are injected via micro-thin, 24-carat-gold-plated needles.

The Lowdown

You might think the word ‘gold’ is added for a bougie touch but here, it’s actually important. The almost microscopic gold needles (20 bunched together in one stamp) cause less irritation and discomfort and encourage much speedier healing. Your chosen mix– vitamin B to combat dullness, micro doses of Botox to tighten, hyaluronic to moisturise, for example– is injected, but not deep enough to compromise muscle movement.

The Name To Know

Joanne Evans at Skin Matters.

Be Aware

Evans offers AquaGold as an addition to facials in her clinic, with its gorgeously cosseting decor (all mustard walls and velvet upholstery), so you’ll get a lovely, cosy experience in comparison to a more clinical premises.

The Details

From £400 for AquaGold as part of a facial treatment; skin-matters.co.uk

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If they look tauter all over, they may be having...

Morpheus8

What Is It?

A combination of microneedling and radio-frequency to smooth and kickstart collagen production.

The Lowdown

Targeting the jowls and neck with this strong but subtle (no injections, no peeling) treatment encourages the turnover of skin cells. It burrows deep into the skin’s layers to trigger collagen production, meaning those unsightly zebra stripes across your throat will fill and fade over time. It also works wonders on the knees.

The Name To Know

Dr Selena Langdon at Berkshire Aesthetics.

Be Aware

Numbing cream will save you from the pain of pins repeatedly penetrating your neck, but the higher you ramp up the intensity of the machine, the more likely you’ll feel some discomfort. You’ll look flushed for a day or so, but don’t be tempted to smother on make-up, as the skin needs to breathe.

The Details

From £500 (a course of two to three sessions is recommended); berkshireaesthetics.com

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If they look perkier and glowing, they may be having...

NYDG Oxygenesis Face Treatment

What Is It?

A glow-getting combo of laser and oxygen jet, and a current favourite with the LA celebrity set, pre-red-carpet appearance.

The Lowdown

If it’s good enough for Sienna Miller, it’s good enough for our tired, lacklustre faces, too. This facial was created by Dr Costas Papageorgiou, who counts Angelina Jolie among his patients, with the sole purpose of restoring rosiness. The treatment uses light-based laser Nd:YAG to stimulate collagen to plump the skin, while the high-pressure hyperbaric oxygen jet then works over the face, pushing the equivalent of a month of good skincare – including hyaluronic acid, vitamins, peptides and antioxidants – into your complexion.

The Name To Know

Dr Costas Papageorgiou atThe NYDG Wellness Clinic in Harrods.

Be Aware

The good doctor is also an ocular surgeon, which makes him extremely deft at subtle ‘baby’ Botox around the eyes. A good place to start for nervous first timers.

The Details

£550 for one treatment; nydg.co.uk

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If they look just indefinably better they may be having...

Glass Botox

What Is It?

Botox, but not as we know it.

The Lowdown

The idea of Botox for its face-freezing effect hardly raises an eyebrow – ahem – these days. The injectable toxin is used to paralyse facial muscles – no movement, ergo no wrinkles. But Glass (also known as ‘skin’ or ‘meso’) Botox is increasingly championed by the niftiest needle workers in the industry, such as our pick of the bunch, Dr Michael Prager. This form of Botox works not in the muscle but on the outer layers of the skin to smooth pores and texture for a wonderful, juicy-faced effect. Note: while the cushioning effect is excellent for filling out fine lines, it’s not so effective on deeper wrinkles around the eyes, forehead or mouth.

The Name To Know

Dr Michael Prager at Beauchamp Place Clinic.

Be Aware

Whereas standard Botox treatments use around four to five shots per area, this uses around 30 to 50, so while it doesn’t sting as much as deep Botox, it is not for the needle shy. The effects can be short-lived (around three to six months) compared with traditional Botox.

The Details

From £595 per treatment; drmichaelprager.com

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If they look seriously smooth, they may be having...

Ellansé Dermal Filler

What Is It?

This filler is a naturally absorbed substance that helps to stimulate collagen production to reduce future signs of ageing, but is particularly good for targeting skin’s potholes.

The Lowdown

Ellansé is multipurpose (it can be used like traditional filler), but is particularly nifty at a more superficial level for filling in crater marks left behind by acne or chicken pox to create a flaw-free face. Not only will it fill in those cavities, but 12 weeks later your own collagen will be renewed, improving skin elasticity and texture in the surrounding skin for up to three years.

The Name To Know

Dr Nina at Facial Sculpting Marylebone.

Be Aware

As with traditional filler, Ellansé can be used everywhere on the face apart from the forehead, and results are almost instant.

The Details

From £550; facialsculpting.co.uk

If they look brighter and bouncier, they may be having...

Mesolift Facial

What Is It?

Supercharged skincare from the inside out: dozens of shallow jabs (into the subcutaneous fat and dermis) to deliver a cocktail of vitamins, minerals and hyaluronic acid.

The Lowdown

Dr Maurice Dray bought the art of injectable skincare from France over to the UK, making his eponymous London-based clinic the first word in Mesotherapy– just ask Gwyneth, who visits regularly. Dray has since spent the past 10 years perfecting the procedure, now offering a blend of 20 amino acids, vitamins and hyaluronic, all in one syringe. Each Mesolift is tailor made, too, so zinc can be added to treat acne, and levels of vitamin C lowered if someone is suffering with dry skin, for example.

The Name To Know

Dr Dray at the Dray Clinic.

Be Aware

The glow-giving, firming results are seen as quickly as the morning after and last for weeks, making this treatment absolutely addictive – if you can afford it. It is worth pointing out that, while the procedure is quick, the numbing cream and ‘Mesogun’ can leave the face feeling peculiar for up to an hour afterwards, so this is probably best booked for off-duty days.

The Details

Best booked as a course of three treatments over six weeks, from £2OO per session; drdray.co.uk

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If they look more sculpted, they may be having...

Transformation Facelift

What Is It?

A combination of radiofrequency and ultrasound laser treatments.

The Lowdown

While radiofrequency triggers fibroblasts (cells in the skin’s dermis layer) to boost collagen, the laser goes a little deeper to stimulate the facial muscles to lift the skin from the inside out.They describe this facial as high-tech ‘self healing’, as the laser combo causes micro-trauma to stimulate our own restructuring and sculpting tissue. It results in a noticeable and more natural effect than if you’ve been manhandled with filler. (You’ll see change after one treatment.) The answer for anyone who wants to tone and tighten but also has filler fear.

The Name To Know

Dr Nyla’s clinics at Medispa, andNumber One Harley Street.

Be Aware

There’s no downtime, but plenty of ‘ow!’ time during the ultrasound, which can be uncomfortable when working around the jawline.

The Details

From £1,000 for a course of five one-hour treatments; doctornyla.com

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*2020 Trends & Innovations in Cosmetic Surgery & Aesthetics,The Private Clinic.

** Cosmetic Surgery UK Market Report, Lang Buisson, September 2019.